Saturday, March 10, 2012

Raigad Fort

In our three day trip to Konkan, last day was planned to visit Mahabaleshwar. But our travel plan changed at the last minute, as locals suggested us to spend more time in Mahabaleshwar to enjoy its beauty. The only choice left was to visit a place that falls on the way back to Pune, and the winner was Raigad Fort.

We started from Shrivardhan in the early morning on January 29th and reached Paachad village (at the base of Raigad fort), the place of Shivaji's mother Jijabai. Had garam garam Poha for breakfast and then headed to Raigad Fort. Took Ropeway to reach the fort. Initially, we were bit scared with the steep ropeway. But the breathtaking view of the mountains from the cable car changed our mood into a thrilling experience. Within few minutes, we reached the backside of the fort. And it's really hard to believe that there is a Fort above the mountains. Hats off to the Maharaja's planning, architect's design and construction.


After reaching the Fort's backside entrance base, we spotted this description of the Fort.


While we were busy reading, three to four Guides surrounded us with a promise of lifetime experience of the Fort's story. True to their promise, really enjoyed their view of the Fort...Mena/Paalkhi Darwaja description, Maharaj's foresight to surprise guests with big elephants at the main entrance, Maharaj's Forts, eight wives and Hirkani's story etc....You better watch yourself in the following video clip....


We entered Raigad Fort through Mena/Paalkhi Darwaja. This leads to the Queens chambers on the left side, each Queen had separate chamber with servant's room at the rear-end. The only thing remained to see are the four walls of each chamber, as the wood roofs disappeared over time.


Opposite to Mena entrance is the main entrance with around 1400 steps. On the other side of queens’ chambers is the residences of eight ministers of Shivaji, also called Astha-pradhan.


The midway leads to Shivaji Maharaj’s own palace with bathtub, drinking water storage and a view to outside world.
 



On one side of the Palace towards the main entrance, there are Queens' balconies, currency room, Jit Darwaja, Ganga sagar lake and Punishment point.




Palace is followed by huge darbar facing the Nagarkhana Darwaja. The newly installed Maharaj’s statue on the throne ‘Meghdambari’ is worth seeing. The unique thing about design of this court was anything spoken from any corner of the court is clearly heard at throne.


Outside the court, there is an open ground called ‘Holi cha maal’ which was place for Holi festival. Another statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji maharaj is erected in front of this place, the place where Maharaj used to sit and enjoy the festivities. Our Guide pointed out major flaw in the statue... the great Maharaj sitting with no chatri above his head...really admire the respect he has towards Maharaj. Small points...but worth noticeable. And as per his knowledge, Maharaj never sits with his shoes on the throne..another flaw of the statue noted down.


In front of Holi cha maal, there are ruins of huge market place. The shops were designed with house at the rear-end and shops in the front. All the shops were designed at an elevated level such that one can shop even while riding or sitting on a horse. All the descriptions made me watch a movie on the fly...felt the presence of the King and his kingdom...a place worth watching.


Far from the main Fort is Jagadishwar Temple which looks like Mughals constuction to deceit the enemies.


There are Nandi, Hanuman idols and Shiv linga inside the temple.





Loyal architect's name is engraved on the footsteps of the temple's backside entrance.


Backside entrance leads to Shivaji Maharaj's Samadhi and also tomb of his dog called ‘Waghya’...loyal dog that jumped into his master's funeral pyre.





Apart from Shivaji's kingdom, mind-boggling Raigad Fort leaves one with memories of mother Hirkani's love for her infant, Waghya's loyalty for her master and Architect's desire to engrave his name under the footsteps of Maharaj. I don't think anyone can leave the place without chanting "Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj ki Jai"!!

Today marks Shivaji Maharaj's Jayanti and Pune is celebrating the auspicious day with great enthusiasm to pay tribute to the great Warrior.



More pictures of Raigad Fort are compiled into video clip...


I must say, trip to Raigad Fort is an unforgettable experience.

Janjira fort

On January 28th, after visiting Harihareshwar temple, we headed to Dighi via Shrivardhan - Diveagar marine drive. Reached Dighi port at around 2pm and waited for more than an hour to catch a steamer to Janjira Fort.



It was past 3:30pm and still no sign of steamer to Janjira Fort...all the steamers were headed to Rajapuri and other places. 


The only option left was sailboat. I was a bit hesitant as no one was ready to board the sailboat... but my brother insisted us to give it a try. As soon as we stepped into the sailboat, people started pouring-in one by one. In no time, enthusiastic people filled the sailboat and sailors started unwrapping the mainsail to catch the wind power.


So far so good....we started enjoying the nice breeze and the closeness of the sea.




After 5 minutes from the starting place, realized that the sea wanted to get more closer to the people inside the boat. We could see the waves running high.


After another 5 minutes, we got scared as the boat started swinging heavily and could see the water level above us. And my sister-in-law and other lady started throwing up...even I felt very dizzy. One of the scariest experiences we ever had in life. Only hope was the Janjira Fort view from far :-(.


People on board started screaming and infants added their pitch with loud cries. Gosh...felt like why the hell we boarded this boat with small kids. 


The moments were intense....everyone could imagine the boat flipping in no time. We could visualize Titanic....at least, it had some time to slide, swing and sink...but this boat...haha....no way...one big blow is enough to flip the boat. 

People started enquiring the time left to reach the Fort and any prior accidents. Sailors answered all questions patiently with a witty smile. By looking at their quiet and smiley faces, we got some courage. They were sitting as if nothing is going to happen and the sailboat will reach the fort in no time :-). 



Big smile on eveyone's face as we saw more sailboats heading to the Fort from Rajapuri.



Sailors started changing the direction of the boat with mainsail and tiller.



The main gate of the fort faces Rajapuri on the shore and can be seen only when one is quite close to it. 

At last, we could see the main entrance of the Fort.


To our surprise, there were around ten sailboats with people ready to enter the Fort.


Sailors started their preparations to stop the boat and land it near the entrance. Another scariest moment was getting down to reach the steps of the Fort. To add more excitement, the person in white shirt slipped into the sea. Even though it is just 4 feet near the entrance, it's the fear that drowned him further. Swimmers at the entrance got him back to boat.



We entered the Fort with a Guide and covered most important points. Took pictures, recorded video, relaxed for sometime and then took deep breath to prepare ourselves for the return journey.







We headed back to Fort's entrance in an hour. We were too exhausted and wanted to go back very badly .....and of course with a fear to cross the water again...











After 45 minutes of sailing and kids' Kolaveri singing to ease the tension, we reached the shore. What a big relief....don't think we'll ever dare to go there again...once in a lifetime experience ;-).



Here is a video clip of our journey back to shore...


Here are some links with more information on Janjira Fort:

Janjira fort (originated from Arabic word Jazeera which means island Some of the people also split the name as “Jal Jeera” meaning fort in the water also known as ‘Fort Mehroob’ ) was initially wooden fortification erected by fishermen in 1538 (under Ram Patil leadership) to protect them from Two Nizam warriors Mirza Ali and Kalab Ali.
A Sardar named Piramkhan (dispatched by Nizamshah) disguised as a traveling merchant entered into the fort with 3 ships full of soldiers. And he captured fishermen. In 1567 -- 1571 this fort was replaced by rocks and the strong fortification by Burhan Nizamshah.
In 1587 Alargkhan was appointed here. Then in 1612 his son Ibrahim Khan and then Siddi Surur Khan came to rule on this fort. 20 Siddhi Nawabs enjoyed rule till 1947-1948. And finally it becomes the part of the Indian constitution.




A trip to Murud - Janjira from Dighi is what can make your Harihareshwar - Shrivardhan - Diveagar trip truely unforgettable. A 20 minute ferry from Dighi will get you to this formidable sea fortress. Few forts in Maharashtra have a history as exciting as Murud-Janjira, the legendary sea-fort. The fort belonged to a dynasty of Siddhis who are believed to have their origins in Abyssinia, in far North Africa. This fort also hold the distinction of never been captured by force, be it the Marathas, British or the Dutch Shivaji Maharaj made six unsuccessful attempts to conquer this fort. Later Sambhaji and even the Peshwas tried to conquer Mehroob, but in vain. The fort Janjira, thus remained unconquered and labeled as impregnable. You could see the splendor of this fort even today. There are a few majestic cannons, which have their own names, and remind you of the many ships they must have destroyed in wars. Janjira caves offer another attraction one cannot resist. But after that you are absolutely ready to hit the beach. Spend your time gleefully lapping amidst the waves and the lush coconut and palm trees, not forgetting the tranquility of the setting sun.



Originally the fort was small wooden structure built by a Koli chief in the late 15th century. It was captured by Pir Khan, a general of Nizamshah of Ahmednagar.  Later the fort was strengthened by Malik Ambar, the Abyssinian Siddi regent of Ahmednagar kings.  From then onward Siddis became independent, owing allegiance to Adilshah and the Mughals as dictated by the times.  Despite their repeated attempts, the Portuguese, the British and the Marathas failed to subdue the Siddi power.  Shivaji’s all attempts to capture Janjira fort failed due to one reason or the other.  When Sambhaji also failed, he built another island fort, known as Kansa or Padmadurg, just 9kms north of Janjira.  The Janjira state came to an end after 1947.  The palace of the Nawabs of Janjira at Murud is still in good shape.